Kagurazaka, home of Tokyo’s French embassy, boasts a wide variety of flavor from across the globe. Where it shines brightly in international cuisines, the district also boasts a gorgeous array of traditional dishes, with beautifully designed kitchens nestled into its quieter streets. Toritama Kagurazaka was one such place, with a tasting menu of thoughtfully prepared yakitori, seasonal side dishes, and drinks. Though the night was a little frigid, we enjoyed waiting for our reservation by browsing through nearby boutiques filled with refined examples of local craftsmanship.
We entered down a narrow staircase that opened up into a wrap-around open kitchen. Waitstaff doubled as kitchen preps, carefully organizing and lining up each course of yakitori for grilling. Near the entrance, the yakitori chef was seasoning skewers of fresh vegetables, tubers and chickens before searing them under a watchful eye. The results were tender courses with flavors coaxed masterfully from simple ingredients.
Yakitori first began appearing in the Meiji era (1868 to 1912), basting and grilling off cuts of Shamo game foul to create an economical street food. It has since expanded into being enjoyed in high-end restaurants with masters who have perfected the craft, in hot-boxes at the local konbinis (convenience stores) and on picnic blankets during hanamis (flower viewing picnics in the springtime).
We asked for the chef’s choice and enjoyed 10 different bites with small plates of veggies scattered between. Each dish was cooked to perfection and bursting with flavor. The seasoning is mild and complimentary to the natural flavors of the ingredients, many of which simply have salt to taste. Over a charcoal grill, the shishito peppers shined brightest as the char brought out its hearty and umami flavors. Sampling raw kabocha pumpkin with miso was a unique and delightful way to enjoy local vegetables. I was also amazed at how the chicken liver yakitori evaded its iron-heavy flavor and melted off the skewer. With its thoughtful dedication to every ingredient in their menu, Toritama is a wonderful opportunity to delve into less common cuts of meat and find appreciation in parts of the bird some may not have been raised eating.
If Japanese isn’t a strong point yet, allowing the chef to pair dishes based on his expertise could be an opportunity to enjoy stepping away from comfort zones without needing to rely heavily on language. Michelin recognized, this was an outstanding cullinary experience, and a must-add to Tokyo itineraries.