Ask seasoned Tokyo dwellers where to eat, and they’ll point you toward the places that don’t have lines at all. Many of Japan’s most fascinating restaurants are carved into unassuming back alleys or even tucked behind furniture and machinery. Located in an unexpected back entryway, finding Shirubee Shibuya’s entrance rewards the discerning eye. The effort, I promise, is worth it. This izakaya marries comfort, history, and luxury. Those with an understanding of Japanese history will notice that the interior and menu exude values that draw Japanese history to the present day, showcasing traditional ingredients at peak freshness.
As you crouch through the 4-foot-tall entrance, you’ll be greeted with a warm, ambient atmosphere and an exciting blend of aromas. It’s apparent that the chefs enjoy their work and want to foster a place that welcomes lively chatter, as they’ll call out to guests and laugh with one another often. Engage pleasantly with the staff or sink into the ambiance with a handblown glass of plum wine.
The restaurant itself has nods towards traditional tea house architecture from the feudal Sengoku period, known as “Sukiya-style tea” or “mountain dwelling in the city.” The aim was to draw a rural atmosphere to urban settings. The doorways, known as “nijiri guchi,” were small by design. As interpersonal relationships were formed within stringent, hierarchical values, the small doors forced people to abandon their long swords and bow upon entry to enjoy tea as equals.
Shirubee Shibuya has easily served some of my favorite meals I’ve tried in Japan. If you’re looking to escape the concrete jungle and settle into an inviting nook of Shibuya, this will be a beautiful addition to your itinerary.
